Kund :- Report By: Dr. Sanjiv
report is not written to present you with a technical
account of the trek but to tell you of my experience
of the first trek which I undertook to Beas kund.
discovered a new world with it's own challenges.
It made me realize the temporaries of the matters
that surround us in daily life. It brought me
closer to God and to be able to appreciate His
nature and plans for human life. Furthermore it
made me realize my own vulnerabilities and strengths.
In fact I can say that if you think yourself to
be strong and unconquerable, come to the mountains!
experience of Beas Kund started with Sammy's idea
of taking a trek during a conversation. Getting
along with an experienced climber seemed a good
idea for a novice like me. So we gathered together
as a team of 5 (Samuel, Gurpreet, Gurvinder -
the Kinnar Kailash Circuit Team and the two of
us - Anjali my wife, and I.)
reached Solang Nalla in the noon with a cloudy
weather awaiting us. Gurvinder was enthusiastic
enough to suggest pitching our tents at Solang
only. However we checked in at a local inn as
it had rained in Solang and the locals were expecting
a bad weather. Sammy took us out to the surrounding
lush ski slopes for an initial tuning up of our
bodies. By evening the weather had worsened and
downpour started and our journey seemed to be
in jeopardy. My body also gave it's first signal
of being unable to cope in Solang by two episodes
of dizziness. By night the reports came that a
bridge had been washed away by the river turbulence
and it would not be possible to go beyond Dhundi,
the site of first camp. The porters too were reluctant
to accompany us. We slept that night with both
a dampened weather and dampened hearts. Gurpreet
was in a bad mood and depressed at the turn of
events or more to say the weather, and as we learnt
later Gurvinder also had his share of a nightmare
the morning greeted us with a sunny cheer and
we decided to proceed with our original plan of
hitting Dhundi and decide on our further course
as per the situation at the site. We started at
8.30 am, carrying our own loads, and reached Dhundi
comfortably by 12.30 pm through the mud and marsh
of the road project being undertaken. Four kilometers
from Solang we had tea at a local tea stall built
for the construction workers. The owner Sohanlal
served us tea and very enthusiastically told us
mythical stories about the Beaskund.
At Dhundi we pitched our tents next to the river
in an area vacated be shepherds as was evident
by the makeshift kitchen of slate stones. Some
distance away we could see the white tiled establishment
of the SASE ( Snow and Avalanche Study Establishment).
That afternoon a herd of buffaloes were returning
back to lower terrain. We were distracted by shouts
and cries coming from downstream. As we watched
from our posts we saw a young calf being washed
away by the currents of the river we had just
crossed. The calf was eventually saved but the
tactical maneuvering by the shepherds and the
struggles of life encountering death in its face
were to leave an indelible mark in our hearts.
The team enthusiastically prepared lunch of parathas
while I had to lie inside when my body gave a
second signal of giving up (probably due to exposure)
as I had lightened my clothing out of zeal. Later
that evening I had severe nausea and headache
a manifestation of mountain sickness, but fortunately
it was the last episode to come as my body was
morning after a light breakfast of cold rice pudding
we started for Bakkar-thach. This was a tough
leg as the river was partially flooded and we
had to walk barefoot across freezing waters. The
route also became steeper and partially disrupted
due to the rains. The bridge reported to be broken
was rebuilt by the returning shepherds, as was
our expectation. It was a row of small wood laid
upon two parallel logs. We reached Bakkar- thach
in about three and a half hours along with a group
of advanced mountaineering course students. We
had to struggle to find a camping place because
the main area was already occupied by a Students
training course. Bakkar- thach (meaning the Goat
Pasture in local language) is a beautiful place
surrounded by snow-capped mountains on one side
and green hills on another side serving as pastures.
We could clearly see the famous peaks of Pir Panjal
range - the Hanuman Tibba, the Seven Sisters,
Friendship Peak and Laddak Peak. This is also
the place used by mountaineering students for
basic training. From our camps we could see students
practicing on packed snow.
We had another sumptuous lunch by our culinary
skilled members (Gurpreet, Gurvinder and Anjali).
The warm sun at Bakkar thach removed all our apprehension
and we could look forward to another better day.
We started for Beas Kund the next day at around
9.30am. This was the toughest bit because of the
sudden change in terrain. A moraine of large rocks,
the way through which could only be discerned
by Cairns placed by trekkers and shepherds, followed
a steep slippery terrain of about 60 degrees.
This place also bears strange marks on the rocks
that seem to be fossilized remains of ancient
ocean life that was once a submerged area. Sammy
also showed us the rocks containing quartz. We
crossed a crevasse with our hearts in our mouth.
Soon we were descending into the sprawling valley
of Beas Kund that presented a spectacular refreshing
sight to our weary bodies. This valley must have
been the bed of the river Beas now reduced in
flow as was evident from the sandy terrain of
the valley and the myriad streams in which the
river had been split. We pitched our tents in
almost the center of the valley at around 13.00
pm along the bank of a stream. All we could see
was a shelter of some shepherds who came to higher
altitudes to graze their goats and sheep and wild
strawberries plants growing in abundance all over.
The serenity of the valley broken only by the
sound of the streams and falls was enough to take
away the tire of the last three days. This place
is worth spending four to five days away from
the complexities of civilized life. After a hasty
lunch we went to see Beas Kund that was around
one kilometer from our camp. This is a small sized
pool with a yet unexplored depth fed by a waterfall.
The other end of the pool opens into a small stream
considered to be the starting of the river Beas.
Because of its peculiar location the pool has
many beliefs and stories associated with it.
to our camps we were joined by flocks of sheep
descending from the high pastures. Shepherds bring
their sheep for two months in a year to this area
to improve the quality of yield. Intrigued by
this fact I tried to look into the vegetation
and found that this place has got a special type
of grass with soft and rounded blades that I did
not see in the lower areas of Solang. We just
made it in time to our camp as a dense fog soon
surrounded us with visibility reduced to only
a metre. The weather is much more unpredictable
in this area. The fog that took us unaware stayed
for a half hour and then cleared away as fast
as it had descended. Sammy's experience came handy
in this place and by night he decided that we
pack up next morning as the weather did not look
good. The morning came with the rains and we prepared
to leave as soon as was feasible.
drizzle stopped at around 7.20 am and we started
off. However we could see the return path enclosed
in deep fog. Soon after, the drizzling started
again but we decided to continue as the weather
was expected to turn worse. We had expected to
stop midway and to pitch our tent for rest. However
that seemed unwise, as the weather grew ominous.
We continued on our journey and decided to hit
back Solang the same day somehow. During this
journey I came to realize the endurance built
inside the human body and was amazed to see my
own performance. Not only we finished our return
journey in one stretch but we also went back through
the same slopes that we thought was impossible
to descend again. All I knew was the continuous
work my legs did as my body fought with the cold
and rain with the heat it produced.
cannot imagine how we all gathered the strength
to walk the slippery rocks, loose scree and
muddy goat tracks down slope with drenched tents,
rucksack and clothing. The trip was not void
of funny incidents as we slipped one after the
other. The first noticeable fall was of Anjali
but her sadness was soon cured by Gurpreet's
secret confession that he had already accomplished
the feat twice! All in all he had seven falls
as the poor fellow was carrying the largest
tent. The cheerful spirit maintained by the
team members and the Sammy's constant motivation
and push kept our feet moving.
Finally after walking for six and a half hours
in the incessant rain we crossed the now churning
Beas a last time and reached Sohanlal's tea
stall where we relished two rounds of hot tea.
However we soon realized that our bodies were
shivering as the rest had made us realize the
harsh weather around us.
We reached Solang in another forty-five minutes
to finally enter the hotel and enjoy a hot relaxing
bath. The one pair of clothing we had left behind
for our trip in Manali came handy, as water had
percolated through our rucksacks completely. It
was fun to realize that even the locals would
not believe that we had accomplished it in this
We returned back to our homes the next day to
find that the smooth roads had given way to landslides
and dangerous potholes throughout the way. The
rains remained with us throughout the drive back
home and even till the next day. It gave us much
relief to realize that we had returned well in
time to get one extra day to relax in our homes.
And while the exhaustion of the days was soon
washed away their footprints remained!
Beas Kund can be used as camping, High altitude
camping, Climbing open peaks ( You do not have
permission to climb ) and some hardcore open routes
for climbing are also there.
Trying unclimbed routes require very good experience
in mix climbing. (Rock, Snow & Ice)