:- Vivek Sachdev
We had heard a lot about the scenic beauty of
this 100 km trek, especially the Zero Point where
the Glacier melts and the Pindari River originates.
go to the Himalayas in search of peace and solace.
We accepted the challenge thrown by its mighty
peaks and valleys in the lap of the wonderful
and I reached Delhi on the 17th September and
boarded the night train, Ranikhet Express to Kathgodam
where we met out team mate Mr.Varun from Delhi.
We were received by Mr. Samual Arthur and Mr.Satnam
our Guides from Himadventures International Tours
Drive from Kathgodam station to Bagheswar was
a bit tiring. We had our breakfast in Almora and
then drove straight to Bagheswar. Samuel kept
entertaining us with his nonstop chatting about
his various trekking adventures and at one stage
he realized that he was just yakking to himself
as we all went off to sleep.
reached Bagheswar around 3 p.m.We purchased our
ration some Fresh Lokies, vegetables, pure desi
Ghee and some kerosene. We also picked a dozens
of apples as I enjoy eating them. It makes my
Morning natures call very enjoyable, unlike Bharat
who preferred some Hamdard Ka Isabghol.
left for Song and all of us were excited that
we decided to start our 1st leg of 2 hours of
trek the same day. Song is the last place on this
trip with some shops. Its on the banks of Revati
Ganga River. We had to walk up for about 3 kms
to Loherkhet. This place is at a height of 5800
feet above sea level. This was like acclimatization
walk to get us all in a mood of the Hike.
reached Loherkhet by about 6 p.m and pitched our
tents. Satnam, our official cook cum Guide started
pumping the stove and was ready with the dinner
by 8 p.m. Food was light and very tasty. After
dinner we started gazing at the stars. Varun showed
us the Planet Mars. We also saw one American spy
satellite which was moving from South to North.
wasn’t cold in the tent as we had tucked
ourselves inside our sleeping bags. The tent was
just enough for three of us to sleep. We also
had to keep our 3 rug sacks and our dirty shoes
zipped inside. I did feel suffocated for sometime.
Bharat would insist to change to his pyjamas and
then go to sleep. Each of us snoring loudly and
the sound was like a tranquilizer, which put us
all to sleep.
were up early morning and went around hunting
for a safe place with our toilet paper rolls and
a mug of water. Later we had a cool smooth shave,
the last shave during this trip. After we finished
our breakfast we set out for our 11 kms trek to
walked with our walking sticks through vast open
spaces, land slide trails and water streams. There
was a steep climb of about 2000 feet. The vegetation
changed from pines to thick forests and a large
variety of trees. The heat in the afternoon made
us all very tired and exhausted.
we sheltered under giant trees and walked through
the forest on the gentle undulating hills and
terraced slopes. We had some tea at a small dhaba
and checked our body if there were any leeches.
reached Dhakuri at about 2 p.m. in the afternoon.
We managed to get some blue and black Pepsi and
enjoyed the valley view sitting outside the dhaba.
There was a small monument of dedicated trekkers
who lost their lives on the expedition to Sunderdunga
Glacier. We were so tired that we decided to take
our bath I remember the gutsy attitude of Bharat
who had his bath in his Birthday suit. Seeing
him enjoying I also enjoyed bathing nude in open
with a few birds and clouds watching me.
was very scenic and is situated in a valley and
it is surrounded by thick forests on all sides
and one could get fabulously the view of snow
clad peaks of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.
spent the night in the tent minus me, which I
conveniently slept in a small room in the Dhaba.
I made sure Bharat and Varun were comfortable
in the tent.
next day we were off for Diwali via Khati. It
is along 19 km trek. Khati is 8 km walk from Dhakuri
and is pretty downhill. From here the routes to
Pindari, Sunderdunga Glacier separate.
walked through the forest and through the openness
of the hills the route was quite rustic. The weather
started changing slowly. There was a chai shop
in the route and we had some tea and biscuits.
To our surprise we saw a lot of Poppy plants.
we reached Khati we had some light snacks and
left our excess baggage at a dhaba (Bharat not
forgetting his pyjamas) because the ponies refused
to go towards Diwali as the bridge at one point
was broken. We took some local porters to carry
our rug sacks and ration. Khati is the last village
on this route. We found the people of Khati very
Khati one path leads to Diwali. It is a 11km walk
through very difficult trails. At one point we
had to walk through a lot of slush our feet and
new Nike Trek Shoes had to sink in by 8 inches
in water and slush. En route we saw a lot of waterfalls
and streams. After about 5 km we crossed the bridge
which was quite risky.
walked through shaded forests with sunlight peeping
in. We maneuvered our way across occasional treacherous
landslide, and rickety log placed to cross a torrential
stream, till we reached Diwali. We were completely
exhausted when we reached Diwali. Everything ached.
is situated in between two valleys in very green
surroundings. We could view the peaks with snow.
checked in the KMVN Dak Bungalow. One small room
where 5 of us spent the night. This was like one
room cum kitchen cum changing room cum store room,
one cot with broken legs all in a 10 x 10 room
without any light. There was a water tap close
by with a pidly stream of water. It was totally
dark outside as it was cloudy. This ambiance made
me feel very depressed. Furthermore I could not
shift sides on the cot as I was sure that if I
move a bit the cot would give way. The night looked
next morning we started our trek to Phurkia. It
started to pour lightly. The Trek to Phurkia was
for 5 km. Here is the greatest challenge of the
trek. The trails washed away and badly damaged
with the recent landslides. We had to cross through
flooded streams. One wrong step on the loose stones...
it is all a game of courage and balance. A slight
off balance on the wet slippery stones and you
we approach Phurkia the air starts becoming thin
and we observed a sudden impact of high altitude
and we are out of the forests and in the open
with lot of big mountains and waterfalls around
reached Phurkia at 2 p.m. It was getting chiller.
As the tenting was risky and the KVMN huts were
locked we were told by Samuel that the kitchen
was the best alternative to spend the night.
for us the watchman just then arrived and opened
the rooms. We had an early dinner of Rice and
dhal and planned to sleep early. We had to trek
7 km and at a much higher altitude for Zero point.
We were up by 5 a.m. and were served hot soup
and biscuits to increase our energy levels to
climb was very beautiful with the view of the
magnificent peaks. There were numerous landslides
throughout the way and had to cross a lot of cold
water streams as which made our walk even more
adventures. The scenery suddenly changed and the
hues of the sky and the greens were extra rich.
front of us we saw the pure white mass of Pindari
Glacier located in between the peaks of Nanda
Devi and Nandkot. It is 300 meters in width and
4 km in length. The valley is drained by the Pindari
River that emerges from the Pindari glacier. It
is a point where one can have an explicit view
of the mighty Himalayas. It is like a place close
Pictures Of this Trek :
10 a.m. we finally reached the Zero point. We
were greeted by Babaji who has built a lovely
ashram. People there refer him as Pilot Baba.
There were some solar panels fitted to charge
some camera batteries. Babaji is from Orissa and
lives there for 9 months. He goes very near the
glacier every morning and evening to pray for
1 hour. We were surprised to see him in his basic
clothing. We offered our prayers at Babaji’s
ashram and rested for some time.
we met Mr. Mathew from Delhi camped there and
was in-charge of the rescue operations of an American
group of trekkers. And it was a coincidence that
he was from the same St.Stephan’s college
from where Bharat was. We had also met a guy from
France who had cycled all the way to India.
were all very hungry and our energy levels were
in the pits as we just had some soup in the morning.
Babaji was very kind enough to offer us food some
hot poories and alu bhaji. The Alu bhaji tasted
very different. It had some noodles and I think
some Himalayan herbs…. Before leaving the
Zero point we had some hot tea and we started
our trek back to Diwali. Zero point was so beautiful
that we left our heart back there.
watching the Himalayas covered with snow and the
sun light falling, it was like a snapshot we would
trek back was a bit different the decent from
zero looked easy but was very tough. The knees
start aching .It was raining throughout and was
very sultry. All of us tired we Walked at our
own pace and used to meet each other after hours.
At one point we saw our socks red with blood and
realized that the leeches had stung us. It was
a messy thing to pull them out.
lunch at Khati, I walked 8 kms to Dhakuri all
alone in the rain and met others only at Dhakuri.
The 11 km trek to Loherkhet the next day was quite
painful .The trails badly damaged and raining
throughout .The calf muscles were like torn.
Loherkhet we reached Song and hired a jeep for
Nainital.Varun, Samuel and Satnam had left for
the Kathgodam station to catch their night train
for Delhi which they missed by 5 minutes and then
rushed to the next station Haldwani. And boarded
their Train for Delhi. We reached Nainital at
9 p.m. and checked into a hotel.
had a lovely hot water bath and shave after 7
days and then had some good Dinner at the restaurant
and had a good night sleep.
next day we spent in Nainital and left for Delhi
by the night train and…. that was the end
of our wonderful trek.
Pindari Glacier trek was very tuff but great fun.
Living 8 days in the mountains/forests without
proper shelter, toilets, electricity and with
lot of leeches around wonder how Lord Rama and
Sita spent 14 years in the forest and wondering
how Veerappan is still living in forest.
I close I would like to thank Samuel and Satnam
for professional services they rendered. The food
was good and balanced. .Touch wood the trek was
safe and we all were in good health and sprits.
I would also like to thank Mr. Neol Ivon Director
of Himadventures International Tours and Trades
for the immediate response, guidance and planning
of the trek.