A far cry from the relentlessly bustling, grimy streets of India’s cities, and unrecognisable from the verdant green, harmonious calm of Goa and Kerala in the South, Ladakh is a slice of India rarely seen.

Inhospitable for over half the year, the Ladakh region sits in the north-eastern corner of the country’s most northerly state Jammu and Kashmir, which borders China and Tibet to the north-east and Pakistan to the north-west. No surprise then that the region’s borders are heavily guarded, and though Ladakh is relatively safe, the area of Kashmir further north has a history marred with frequent military clashes, and remains volatile, whilst the Siachen glacier region is an active military zone. With less than 300,000 people spread over 33,554 square miles, the area is India’s most sparsely populated region, and is characterised by a distinctly laid-back, Buddhist culture, markedly different from the rest of India. With a rugged landscape and mild summer climate, Ladakh is both a fantastic getaway when the rest of India gets too much, and a unique and interesting destination in its own right.

Getting there

There are frequent flights to Leh from several major Indian cities. By far the most exhilarating way to reach the region, however, is along the Manali-Leh highway, the world’s second highest road. But, be warned: it ain’t for the faint-hearted. From Delhi, we took a 6-hour train to Kalka and then another 6-hour train which winds up through the mountains to Shimla. Another overnight bus-ride takes you to Manali where it’s easy to find a jeep to do the journey to Leh. You can take the bus but, frankly, I wouldn’t recommend it.